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Richard Kihl

2018 Saumur-Champigny from Domaine des Roches Neuves


As Bordeaux specialists, we have a soft spot for the delicious, elegant Cabernet Franc-based reds from Saumur-Champigny in the Loire.  In Bordeaux, this variety is used to add elegance and aroma.  Our notes from the en primeur tastings earlier this year are laden with references to its characteristic violet and graphite aromas (one might say, it's the variety which puts the lead in Bordeaux's 'pencil' aromas).

Grown on 'tuffeau' limestone soils in cooler Saumur-Champigny, Cabernet Franc has softer tannins and so, like Beaujolais, it works beautifully served lightly chilled; a superb summer wine.  But if this suggests a lack of seriousness, think again.  In the hands of a winemaker like Thierry Germain of Domaine des Roches Neuves, it can achieve dizzying heights. 

Like the grape variety he works with, Thierry grew up in Bordeaux, but set off for the Loire at the age of 23 to make his own name as a winemaker.  Two decades later he has winemaking 'guru' status.  One of France's leading biodynamic winemakers, his wines achieve higher scores with each vintage. Roches Neuves is now second only to Saumur's 'cult' domaine, Clos Rougeard (bought in 2017 by the Bouygues brothers, owners of Château Montrose in St-Estèphe).  It is worth remarking that Thierry's wines vie with those of Clos Rougeard in terms of scores, but are a fraction of the price (multiply the prices below by six to eight times!).

Thierry produces a number of cuvées, from the simple but delicious 'vin de domaines', which we have offered for some time, to 'Les Memoires', from century-old vines. 

Working biodynamically, the entire estate is hand-harvested and Thierry uses indigenous yeasts to ferment in a mixture of stainless steel, large wooden vats and three year-old barriques, bought from Méo-Camuzet in Vosne-Romanée. All of the wines emphasize the silky textural elegance which Cabernet Franc is capable of.  2018 was a superb vintage in Saumur and the wines show richness and concentration from the warm summer, but still retain their freshness. 

The wines below show world class winemaking skills and the value they offer is astonishing.  Why not expand your drinking repertoire and order the domaine wine now for summer drinking (immediately available, equivalent to just £14.67 per bottle inc VAT).

For longer term cellaring, Terres Chaudes, Franc de Pied, Clos Les Echeliers and Les Memoires are all offered en primeur, landing at the end of this year.

2018 Saumur-Champigny, Domaine des Roches Neuves

Intense blackcurrant fruit, with rotundone pepper and violet aromas on the nose.  The same intense fruit is evident on the palate, which is very dry (and somehow 'grownup' for it) with moderate tannins.  The acidity emphasizes the freshness of the fruit, vibrancy and energy.  Amazing quality of winemaking at this price level.  The acidity would pair amazingly with lamb dishes.  RKL

£120 per 12 bottles in bond

2018 Saumur-Champigny, ‘Terres Chaudes’

From the Les Poyeux vineyard, one of the best sites in Saumur-Champigny.  Matured in old wood for 12 months.  A step up in concentration from the domaine wine, with more spice and a complex vegetal character.  Bottled unfined and unfiltered.  RKL

£204 per 12 bottles in bond

2018 Saumur-Champigny 'Franc de Pied'

Franc de Pied' designates ungrafted vines. This wine, made with whole-bunch vinification, is sourced from a plot planted with 10,000 vines per hectare and farmed using horses. The result is stunning, possessing both seductive fruit and superb complexity, as well as a crystalline texture and enchanting freshness.  Drinking Window 2025 - 2035. 93 points."  Decanter Magazine, Feb 2019.

£288 per 12 bottles in bond

2018 Saumur-Champigny, 'Clos Les Echeliers'

"Clos de l'Echelier covers nearly 2ha inside a walled-in clos of terraces with clay-based soil on limestone bedrock. The 2018 is made from beautifully ripe grapes and has an enchanting nose of raspberry and blackcurrant. The palate is mouthwatering, with a crystalline texture undergirded by fine tannins. Drinking Window 2022 - 2032.  94 points. Decanter Magazine, Feb 2019.

£352 per case 12 bottles in bond

2018 Saumur-Champigny, 'Les Memoires'

"It stands to say that this will prove to be a memorable wine, sourced from old vines planted in 1904 on a siliceous soil known as silex. Its smoke-infused nose remains a bit austere for the moment, so the wine requires some aeration, but it's a superb wine of depth and density yet without heaviness. There's astonishing length on the palate. All this points towards a destiny of age-worthiness.  Drinking Window 2025 - 2035.  95 points."  Decanter Magazine, Feb 2019.

£360 per 12 bottles in bond

 

Our full 2018 Bordeaux En Primeur offer is now online.

Featuring over 70 wines from this superb vintage, from Cru Bourgeois to First Growths. 

 

Minimum order: 1 case as listed.
Payment: On receipt of invoice.
Shipment: Domaine wine available immediately.  All other wines sold en primeur, available late 2019.
Delivery: Delivery, duty & VAT charged at prevailing rates at time of clearance from bond.

Wine Catalogues


 

Do you have wine to sell?

Many of the wines listed are bought from private individuals. If you would like a quotation for your wines please contact Antony Irvine. We can offer cash or broking terms.