The wines of Francois Mitjavile: A vertical 1986-2015
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Let us be honest, 'We are delighted / excited / thrilled to offer...' is a clichéd opening for a fine wine offer. We try not to use it, and hope you don't notice too much when we do. On this occasion, it is more than merited by this vertical collection from St-Émilion superstar Tertre Rôteboeuf and its Côtes de Bourg sister property Roc de Cambes. Both wines really do deserve your attention.
We visited Tertre Rôteboeuf in April and were entranced by the people, the place and the wines. Sandwiched between visits to gleaming cellars at Beauregard and Pavie, our appointment at Tertre Rôteboeuf was like being transported to an ancient, mould-lined cellar in Burgundy. The charming and philosophical Francois Mitjavile held court, but his daughter Nina is evidently taking an increasing lead in the winemaking with each passing vintage.
The wines are quite unlike anything else we have tasted in Bordeaux and are not easy to describe. The usual juxtaposition of 'concentration' and 'elegance' fails to convey the intense, wildly aromatic Pinot Noir-like quality to the nose versus the opulent blueberry and blackberry fruit concentration on the palate.
Sumultaneously an intellectual and a sensory delight, Mitjavile's wines often win over some of the most famous names right bank names in blind tastings. We wonder they do not score more highly (mere mid-90s!) but as Julia Harding MW points out in an article on Mitjavile:
"...with these wines more than any, the words are more important than the numbers." Jancis Robinson.com Oct 2017.
The estate has been in the family since the '60s but it was Mitjavile who made its name, learning his trade at Figeac in the early '70s. His first vintage was in 1978 and by the '89 vintage the reputation of this 6 hectare estate was established alongside the best in St-Émilion.
Roc de Cambes was acquired in 1988, a distinct terroir, but the wines exhibit the same Mitjavile magic, with a unique texture and aromatic complexity.
Farmed organically, Tertre Rôteboeuf is close to Troplong Mondot and Pavie. The cool soils here slow the ripening process and this is usually one of the last estates to finish harvest. Training the Merlot and Cabernet Franc vines close to the ground (see picture above) maximises the warmth radiated from the soil at the end of the ripening season. This contributes to the silky, glycerin texture on the palate and aromatic complexity, particularly
from the Cabernet Franc.
Francois and Nina radiate their own warmth and wholeheartedness when talking about their terroir and how they make their wines. We have managed to secure the parcel below which includes some wonderful modern and older vintages.
No introduction to Tertre Rôteboeuf is complete without the etymology of the name, derived from the days when the land was used for cattle grazing, and broadly translating as 'the hill of the belching beef'.
These exceptionally beautiful wines are offered duty paid or in bond, according to the individual vintages listed below. Available October 2019.
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2015 Château Le Tertre Rôteboeuf, St-Émilion Grand Cru |
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"The 2015 Tertre-Rôteboeuf has a sumptuous, decadent and multi-layered bouquet with billowing black cherries, blueberry, crème de cassis and violet aromas that are hedonistic and irresistible. The palate is full-bodied with a lot of extraction: chocolate-tinged black fruit, sweet and candied with veins of peppermint toward the no-holds barred finish. A powerhouse of a Saint-Émilion, I was initially prudent with my score but the manner in which it coalesces in the glass is convincing. 95 points." Neal Martin, vinous.com, July 2019.
2 cases available at £1950 per 12 bottles in bond
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2014 Château Le Tertre Rôteboeuf, St-Émilion Grand Cru |
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"The 2014 Le Tertre Roteboeuf, now in bottle, has a very refined and pure bouquet, with red cherries, wild strawberry and a touch of orange blossom—all very Burgundy-like in style. The palate is very well balanced, with crisp tannin, hints of fig and date infusions that complement the red berry fruit, and a touch of white pepper toward the long finish. This is turning out to be a delicious (as banal as that reads) Le Tertre-Roteboeuf with the tannic structure to suggest that it will give pleasure over the next 20-30 years. Drink Date 2020 - 2045. 94 points." Neal Martin, Wine Advocate, June 2017
2 cases available at £1495 per 12 bottles in bond
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2011 Château Le Tertre Rôteboeuf, St-Émilion Grand Cru |
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"Picked on 22nd September, the Tertre-Rôteboeuf has a very pure, lifted bouquet with great precision and minerality. It is not powerful, but it has great refinement and finesse. The palate is introverted, remaining its shell, but it has crisp, almost chalky tannins and very pure, pixelated dark berry fruit with hints of spice on the linear finish. It is not expressive at the moment, but it has great potential. Tasted April 2012. 92-94 points." Neal Martin, RobertParker.com, April 2012
2 cases available at £1395 per 12 bottles in bond
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2009 Château Le Tertre Rôteboeuf, St-Émilion Grand Cru |
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"The 2009 Le Tertre-Rôteboeuf has a classically styled nose in the context of the vintage, almost Left Bank in style with touches of pencil box infusing the brambly red berry fruit. There is just a distant tang of autumn bonfire. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, quite tight and structured with a light peppery, cedar-tinged finish that lingers impressively in the mouth. Tasted several times before, this remains an outstanding Saint-Émilion from François Mitjavile. 2021 - 2045. 96 points." Neil Martin, Vinous.com, Mar 2019.
1 case available at £2450 per 12 bottles in bond
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2005 Château Le Tertre Rôteboeuf, St-Émilion Grand Cru |
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"A sensational effort, Tertre Roteboeuf's 2005, along with the 2000, is one of the most profound wines made by Francois Mitjavile. A dense ruby/purple color is followed by a stunning perfume of sweet black currants, jammy cherries, licorice, and spice. Full-bodied and opulent with high, but remarkably sweet, velvety tannins as well as a stunning texture and a finish that lasts nearly a minute, this prodigious St.-Emilion should be drinkable in 3-4 years, and last for two decades or more. Kudos to the proprietor. Drink 2011-2031. 98 points." Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, April 2008
1 case available at £3100 per 12 bottles duty paid
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2002 Château Le Tertre Rôteboeuf, St-Émilion Grand Cru |
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"A fabulous 2002. Really rich and hedonistic on the nose but not overdone in terms of extraction and oak. Exceptional. Merlot dominates but there seems to be some Cabernet Franc freshness too. Very intense. 17 points." Jancis Robinson, Apr 2015.
1 case available at £1495 per 12 bottles in bond
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1996 Château Le Tertre Rôteboeuf, St-Émilion Grand Cru |
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"The 1996 Le Tertre-Roteboeuf is less sumptuous out of bottle than it was from cask. Nevertheless, this is an outstanding wine produced in the tell-tale style of this well-placed hillside vineyard. The color is a deep ruby, and the nose offers up hedonistic notes of smoky, creme brulee, roasted coffee, and chocolate-covered cherries. This medium-bodied wine is exhibiting more structure, muscle, and tannin than I remember from cask. In fact, after the sweet aromatics and initial blast of fruit on the attack, the wine seems to close down, revealing moderate tannin in the very good finish. Unlike most vintages of Le Tertre-Roteboeuf, which can be drunk immediately, the 1996 requires 2-3 years of cellaring, and should keep for 15-16 years. 90 points." Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, April
1999
1 case available at £1650 per 12 bottles in bond
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1986 Château Le Tertre Rôteboeuf, St-Émilion Grand Cru |
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"This wine has lost some of its fat, opulent fleshiness, with the tannins showing a bit more toughness than several years ago. The wine is fully mature, not likely to get better, and probably best drunk up over the next 5-6 years. The color is showing some amber at the edge, and the wine still has beautiful ripeness, richness, and a very sweet, vanillin-infused, black cherry and berry character. The wine is medium-bodied, but the finish is just a bit shorter than it was several years ago. Anticipated maturity: Now-2006. Last tasted, 12/02. 89 points." Robert Parker's Bordeaux Book, Jan 2003.
1 case available at £1650 per 12 bottles in bond
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2015 Château Roc de Cambes, Côtes de Bourg |
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"From cask, shortly before bottling. Dense and, unsurprisingly, closed on the nose, showing oaky black fruits and a hint of espresso. It has a voluptuous palate backed by very ripe tannins. It has plenty of concentration and spice, with a taut structure and ample energy. Good, if not exceptional, acidity but the tannic finish is immensely long. Drinking Window 2020 - 2028. 94 points." Stephen Brook, Decanter Jul 2017
3 cases available at £540 per 12 bottles in bond
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2013 Château Roc de Cambes, Côtes de Bourg |
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"The Roc de Combes, in similar fashion to the Tertre-Roteboeuf, has a Burgundy inspired bouquet with fine precision. The palate is medium-bodied with mulberry and dark plum fruit intermingling with Chinese tea and a touch of cloves. There is good balanced in this wine, a little sharpness towards the finish, but overall this is another fine Roc de Combes from Francois Mitjavile. 89-91 points." Neal Martin, RobertParker.com, April 2014
5 cases available at £420 per 12 bottles in bond
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2012 Château Roc de Cambes, Côtes de Bourg |
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"Interesting comparing the Roc des Cambes with the Tertre-Roteboeuf, for here there is a little more drive and intensity on the nose, more volume emanating from the glass with pomegranate and cranberry scents intermingling with fresh gravel notes. The palate is soft and sensual on the entry with layers of fleshy red berry fruit. The tannins have a Burgundy-like finesse and there is a lovely touch of Schezhuan pepper numbing the tip of the tongue on the finish. This will be a fascinating Roc des Cambes. Tasted April 2013. 90-92 points." Neal Martin, RobertParker.com, May 2013
3 cases available at £440 per 12 bottles in bond
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2011 Château Roc de Cambes, Côtes de Bourg |
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"The 2011 has a wonderful, pastille-like bouquet with unerring intensity, with a Burgundy, Vosne-Romanée-type mineralité. The palate is very pure with filigree tannins, a crystalline composition with wonderful balanced and precision on the finish. This is a stunning Roc de Cambes that makes you wonder why they bothered back in 1855. Tasted March 2012. 91-93 points." Neal Martin, RobertParker.com, April 2012
4 cases available at £480 per 12 bottles in bond
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2010 Château Roc de Cambes, Côtes de Bourg |
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"A very deep red colour with a nose of rich black fruits and liquorice. It has an atypical savoury character, yet it's complex and vibrant. The palate is immensely concentrated, with firm tannins that aren't too grippy, and a remarkable bite and tension. Some mocha tones come through on the long fresh finish. Assertive and dazzling. Drinking Window 2018 - 2035. 94 points." Stephen Brook, Decanter Jul 2017
2 cases available at £600 per 12 bottles in bond
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2009 Château Roc de Cambes, Côtes de Bourg |
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"A very deep red, with dense plum and cherry aromas, very oaky and forceful. It is sumptuous and very concentrated on the palate, although a touch aggressive now. This is an imposing wine which has real grandeur, but it remains tannic and chewy and has a long way to go. Less finesse but more overt power than the 2010. Long. Drinking Window 2020 - 2035. 93 points." Stephen Brook, Decanter Jul 2017
1 case available at £620 per 12 bottles in bond
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2008 Château Roc de Cambes, Côtes de Bourg |
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Very deep red in colour, with a still youthful stern, oaky nose of reticent blackberry and blackcurrant. Although the attack is supple, robust and chewy tannins kick in on the mid-palate. It's still a bit aggressive, but is both focussed and polished in a muscular and energetic style. Long, and with good ageing potential. Drinking Window 2018 - 2030. 93 points." Stephen Brook, Decanter Jul 2017
1 case available at £560 per 12 bottles in bond
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1994 Château Roc de Cambes, Côtes de Bourg |
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"Deep color. Black raspberry, coffee and cedar; less expressive than the '95. Sweet, spicy cherry and plum fruit given shape by a firm edge of tannins. Leaner than the '95, with a texture more akin to a Médoc. 86-88 points." Stephen Tanzer, May 1996, Vinous.com
1 case available at £475 per 12 bottles duty paid
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1988 Château Roc de Cambes, Côtes de Bourg |
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"Gosh this is impressive! Both for its appellation (although it has long ago proved its exceptional status in that context) and for the fact that this was the debut vintage of François Mitjavile's second property (after Tertre Roteboeuf). If Certan de May 1988 had not been served with it, I think everyone would have been raving about the Roc. Absolutely in its prime, superbly and subtly evolved with good freshness and balance but no awkward tannins and no excess acidity. Bravissimo! 18 points." (Tasted from Imperiale). Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com, August 2017
1 case available at £600 per 12 bottles duty paid
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Minimum order: 1 case as listed.
Payment: On receipt of invoice.
Shipment: Available October 2019.
Delivery: Delivery, duty (where applicable) & VAT charged at prevailing rates at time of clearance from bond.
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Wine Catalogues
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Do you have wine to sell?
Many of the wines listed are bought from private individuals. If you would like a quotation for your wines please contact Antony Irvine. We can offer cash or broking terms.
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