Passport to Burgundy: Fine whites to enjoy this summer

2017 RULLY VIEILLES VIGNES Domaine Meix Guillaume

New to us this spring.  The winemakers may be young but their family estate dates to the 14th century.  Siblings Erell and Flavien Ninot took over the running of the domaine from their parents in 2003.  The 2017 Vielles Vignes has impressive fruit concentration balanced with elegant oak elevage.  The result is ripe, rich and structured wine, perhaps more representative of white burgundy as a whole than of any particular Rully terroir.  Exceptionally good value with class and power you might associate with Saint Aubin or even Chassagne. RKL  

15 cases at £195 per 12 bottles in bond

2017 AUXEY DURESSES BLANC Domaine Jean Pascal et Fils

'Ciselé' is a lovely French tasting term which captures the chiselled, clean angular style of the fruit here, with sweet and sour notes, textured and very individual.  A good example of the Pascal style, the structure deriving from fruit character.  Very grown-up white burgundy at this price. Landed in May 2019, this has already become a favourite with us and stocks are diminishing rapidly as we drink them up ourselves....be quick!  RKL

5 cases available at £200 per 12 bottles in bond

2017 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET VIEILLES VIGNES Domaine Borgeot

Floral and perfumed on the nose with fine minerality, a surprising and delightful lightness of touch from the usually austere, muscular style of the Borgeot Brothers.  Class village Chassagne with unusual concentration for this level. 

4 cases at £360 per 12 bottles in bond

2017 PULIGNY MONTRACHET Domaine Jean Pascal et Fils

From the Enseignieres Lieu Dit, creamy textured with white peach aromas and stone fruit richness on the palate, wrapped up in very fine acidity and with lots of concentration. Like all of the domaine's wines this is marked more by an extraordinary intensity and purity of fruit than by minerality.  RKL

4 cases at £360 per 12 bottles in bond

2016 MONTAGNY 'LE CLOU' Domaine du Clos du Salomon

From just 2,2 hectares of vines in the walled 'Le Clou' vineyard, owner Ludovic du Gardin (pictured above) makes structured, powerful wines which require more ageing than most Montagnys.  The 2016 is just now coming around for drinking, but shows a beautiful savoury character with lots of minerality, lightly toasted hazelnut and peach fruit just beginning to express itself, particularly when paired with food.  RKL    

10 cases at £180 per 12 bottles in bond

2016 PULIGNY MONTRACHET FOLATIERES 1er cru Alain Chavy

Refined mineral aromas and some smokiness on the nose with a sea-side ozone freshness and some new oak.  Lime zest, acacia and hazelnut on the palate, with a fresh lemon pith texture. Minerality gives the wines its length on the palate, accompanied by long, persistent fruit, just now beginning to drink now.  RKL

"The 2016 Puligny Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru has a more conspicuous marine bent to the aromatics compared to the other Puligny premier crus, with oyster shells and mudflat scents filtering through the green apple aromas. The palate is well balanced with a fresh and vibrant entry. Now this is a very pretty Puligny in the making, very harmonious with traces of blackcurrant leaf and spice, fanning out as if the 2016 vintage was not beset by trials and tribulations. There is just a disarming flow about this Folatières and it should drink well for the next decade. 91-93 points" Neal Martin, RobertParker.com

14 cases at £520 per 12 bottles in bond

2014 CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET TETE DU CLOS 1er cru Benjamin Leroux

"Tête du Clos may be part of Morgeot, but in some senses it has more in common with neighbouring La Romanée as it's in the highest part of the premier cru on steep, chalky soils. Dubbed the 'Chevalier-Montrachet of the south' by Ben Leroux, it's a pithy, almost Chablis-esque wine with fine texture and lots of underlying concentration. 96 points."  Tim Atkin MW, Decanter Nov 2018.

1 case at £720 per 12 bottles in bond

2014 SAINT AUBIN MURGERS DENTS DE CHIEN 1er cru Domaine Alex Gambal £360 IB

The 1er Cru “Les Murgers des Dents de Chien” is named after the 'wall of the dogs' teeth', the crinkled dry stone wall which demarks the vineyard just above the Grand Cru Chevalier Montrachet. The high altitude (around 1200 feet) means wines from this site usually retain freshness. The 2014 has a pale yellow hue with green tints and aromas of white flowers and citrus. Fresh and citrusy on the palate with lots of energy.  RKL

"This fine, ageworthy wine is rounded, smooth and full of ripe yellow fruit. There is a zesty tang on the back palate that will allow it to mature, its richness shining through a frame of crisp texture....92 points." Roger Voss, The Wine Enthusiast Nov 2017

3 cases at £360 per 12 bottles in bond

2014 PULIGNY MONTRACHET CHAMP CANET 1er cru Jean-Marc Boillot

"The 2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Canet has a vibrant, citrus-driven bouquet with tangible wet limestone and flinty notes emerging with time. The palate is just superb: beautifully balanced with very well judged acidity, fanning out gradually in the mouth with a gorgeous, saline finish that leaves you wanting another sip. This is an outstanding Champ Canet from Jean-March Boillot--chapeau! 93 points."  Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate  (1/2016)

2 cases at £640 per 12 bottles in bond