2017 Hudelot-Baillet, Chambolle-Musigny

January is Burgundy En Primeur season and over the coming week we will be offering some 2017 wines from four small domaines, which we unearthed on our travels in the Côte d'Or late last year.

With prices from the most sought after domaines at record levels, these are wines for people who actually love to drink and enjoy Côte d'Or burgundy, from growers just below the collectors' radar.

2017 has been well-received, a 'good' year, somewhere ahead of 2014, while not quite reaching the level of the excellent 2015s and 16s.  What is notable is how extremely drinkable the wines are now - including the reds.

Our first domaine is a rising star of Chambolle-Musigny, located in the heart of Chambolle on Rue de l’Eglise, a few doors along from the 'mairie'.  After a career in the French airforce, Dominique LeGruen took over the winemaking at Domaine Hudelot-Baillet from his father-in-law in 2004.  The wines have gained steadily in stature. 

By day, Dominique's wife works as a police detective (homicide) in Dijon, a powerful reminder that, along with all the romance associated with Chambolle, these are very real people, making very real efforts to produce great wines.  A newly excavated cellar beneath the existing domaine demonstrates how the results of the harvest are ploughed (quite literally) back into the domaine in the pursuit of quality.

Dominique himself comes across as earnest and practical, determined and focused on detail.  He uses destemming and cool maceration for his red wines, with punching down, remontage and delestage, to extract the supple tannins from the skins rather than the pips.  The wines are aged in between a third and a half new oak.

New finds from the top villages of the Côte de Nuits are rare and we're pleased to offer these wines for the first time.  Consensus in the trade seems to be that 2017 is a 'Chambolle year', and for us this is certainly the case.

Later in the week we will focus on some domaines from the Côte de Beaune, but in the meantime you can view both these and our offers from some of the top negociants on our en primeur page here.

Offered En Primeur, wines due to land in the UK in November 2019.

2017 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Hudelot-Baillet

From a small plot of vines in Chambolle.  Full dark fruits on the nose, some (well-integrated) oak showing.  Fleshy and full with raspberry and dark cherry fruits and some spice. RKL

£150 per case of 12 bottles in bond

2017 Hautes Côtes de Nuits, Hudelot-Baillet

A little closed on the nose (tasted on an extremely damp, foggy day, low air-pressure subduing some aromas) but meaty and savoury, with a tremendously fleshy, plump mid-palate and structured tannins. 

Dominique commented that Côte de Nuits Villages growers are increasingly looking at plots at the tops of their slopes.  Labelled as 'Hautes Côtes', they often echo the style of the nearby village. Serious and structured Burgundy from a Chambolle grower but at an 'Hautes Côtes' price. RKL.

£180 per case of 12 bottles in bond

2017 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes, Hudelot-Baillet

From 60-80 year-old vines.  Full and fleshy in character on the palate, juicy black fruits, with dark blackcurrant and blueberry balanced by earthy cherry and some spice.  Powerful but supple tannins with the elegant silky texture of Chambolle already evident on the finish.  RKL

£210 per case of 6 bottles in bond

2017 Chambolle-Musigny 'Les Charmes' 1er Cru, Hudelot-Baillet

30 to 60 year old vines. ‘Très jolie’ on the nose, delicate floral (violet, peony) and mineral crushed rock notes.  Blackcurrant and mint tones at the core, very fine and open now.   As with the other wines tasted so far, this seems to have an honesty and sincerity - reflecting the personality of the wine maker.  The elegant style of Les Charmes comes from the high limestone content of the soils here. RKL

£310 per case of 6 bottles in bond

2017 Chambolle-Musigny 'Les Cras' 1er Cru, Hudelot-Baillet

From vines directly above our heads, growing in a plot in Dominique's back garden, beneath which his newly excavated cellar lies.  Broad, earthy and spiced on the nose.  Fills out further on the palate, with a persistence to the length, (Les Charmes is more linear by comparison).  Dominique suggests 6-7 years in bottle for the Les Charmes but an additional 2 years for Les Cras. RKL

£325 per case of 6 bottles in bond

2017 Chambolle-Musigny 'Les Borniques' 1er Cru, Hudelot-Baillet

From a tiny parcel of vines in the 'Les Borniques' 1er Cru.  In previous vintages Dominique blended this with other 1er Cru parcels, so small was the volume, but recently he has brought the name back. Les Borniques has famous neighbours, it is adjacent to Musigny Grand Cru and touches 'Les Amoureuses'.  Floral, rose perfumed, very powerful, blackberry and cassis fruits with violets.  The weight of fruit could be mistaken for a Grand Cru, but still with great elegance and a fine tannic structure. RKL

£395 per case of 6 bottles in bond