2017 Vintage Port Declaration: Another 1945?

2017 Cockburn's

"The Cockburn’s 2017 Vintage Port is made from prime vineyards in its traditional Douro Superior heartland: Quinta dos Canais, Quinta do Vale Coelho and Quinta do Cachão do Arnozelo. Yields were very low at under 1 kg per vine. The small berries produced remarkable wines with great concentration and structure. When the Symingtons acquired Cockburn’s in 2010, we pledged to rebuild its reputation for Vintage Ports. Its 2011 and 2016 Vintage Ports garnered exceptional international endorsements, confirming that Cockburn’s was once again producing world-class ports.  Only 2,500 nine litre cases were bottled." Shipper's note.

£240 per case of 6 bottles in bond

2017 Croft

"Whoa!" (begins our tasting note, with apologies).  Intense black and red berry fruits leaping out of the glass, complimented by herbs (sage).  The tannins seem softer than Fonseca, you could almost enjoy this now, but probably shouldn't.  Still, earlier drinking than Fonseca and very much so than Taylor's.  RKL

"Dense inky core fading to a magenta rim. A seductive Croft nose, ripe and voluptuous but with the depth and density characteristic of the 2017 vintage. As usual, plump, juicy blackcurrant, black cherry and raspberry form the backdrop. However, the nose is soon drawn into a vortex of heady, complex aroma in which resiny scents of eucalyptus and gumcistus blend with pungent notes of sage and mint, fresh hints of grapefruit and a mellow spiciness. On the palate, firm, sinewy tannins are wrapped in a thick envelope of dense, velvety texture. As is often the case, this is one of the most exotic and beguiling wines of the vintage. However, it is also a weighty wine, dense and deeply coloured, with the concentration and stamina to ensure a long life in bottle. One of the finest Croft Vintages of recent years."  Shipper's note.

£240 per case of 6 bottles in bond

2017 Dow's

Complex aromas of beeswax and herbs, masses of fruit concentration but it is locked away at present by the exceptionally fine tannins.  An impression of dryness on the finish and elegance, beautifully balanced.  RKL

"The Dow’s 2017 reflects the pedigree that has given Dow’s its legendary status in the fine wine world. Depth, intensity and power are the key hallmarks of this wine with a formidable structure that will ensure its ability to age for many decades.  2017 was a very different year to 2016 in terms of the viticultural conditions and it was interesting to watch the progression of the wine and scrutinize its quality as it developed over its first two winters. Whereas 2016 had a Quinta da Senhora da Ribeira very mild winter and exceptionally hot summer, this was compensated by abundant winter and spring rainfall. Conversely, 2017 was warm and dry throughout, although summer temperatures were closer to average, which proved to be a very significant factor allowing for complete, balanced ripening.  In 2017, the mature plantings of Touriga Nacional from the eastfacing Vinha Grande parcels at Senhora da Ribeira made an important contribution. These older vines’ well developed root systems and the cooler aspect of the vineyards proved their worth in the particularly hot and dry conditions.  Dow’s grapes are fermented in the small, specialist wineries of Bomfim and Senhora da Ribeira. Our winemaking teams select various single variety plantings to vinify separately as well as some specific cofermentations, which in 2017 included combined fermentations of Sousão and Touriga Franca. They are trodden in our modern lagares and achieve ideal extractions, producing wines of great complexity." Shipper's note.

£330 per case of 6 bottles in bond

2017 Fonseca

Explosive with black fruits, but absolutely the freshest.  Blackcurrant, black cherry, herbs and the same slatey mineral character you find in top wines from Priorato.  No sense of heat.  Very distinct, a brilliant effort.  RKL.  

"A narrow magenta ring around a core of inky purple black. The nose opens with a burst of dark, woodland fruit, dense and succulent, blended with fresher, more vibrant red berry aromas. A slatey minerality holds this exuberant fruitiness in check. At this stage, the nose is still reserved and discreetly aromatic, revealing leafy, balsamic scents and cedary notes of sawn wood. The first impression on the palate, as on the nose, is of tightly packed, dense dark berry fruit, which then explodes on the mid-palate and surges into the long finish. The texture is round and velvety but the taut, sinewy tannins and a strand of crisp acidity provide firmness and structure. The layered, complex fruit typical of Fonseca holds sway over this weighty, powerful wine." Shipper's note.

£320 per case of 6 bottles in bond

2017 Graham's

Beautiful scents of bergamot and rock rose, cassis and blueberries.  Utterly distinct in style from the other houses but one of the most 'complete' wines here, offering abundant fruit, accessibility and a fine and powerful tannic structure.  If forced to choose a single port this would be the one.  RKL 

"This wine is produced from vines at the flagship Graham’s property in the Douro valley, Quinta dos Malvedos, with small parcels of top graded grapes from Quinta do Tua, Quinta da Vila Velha, and Quinta do Vale das Malhadas. In 2017 42% less rain fell at Malvedos than the 30 year average and the vines produced a small but extremely high-quality crop with extraordinary concentration.  The wine was fermented in small batches at our specialist on-site winery at Malvedos. It carries the classic Graham’s hallmarks – full-bodied, rich, and opulent – and will provide great drinking pleasure for decades to come.  Only 5,250 nine litre cases were bottled."  Shipper's note.

£330 per case of 6 bottles in bond

2017 Quinta do Noval

Very vinous with fine, complex fruit aromas and something wild about it - damsons and mulberry scented, hedgerow fruits as well as plenty of concentrated cassis and elemental minerality.  RKL 

"2017 was characterised by a cold, dry winter followed by an exceptionally hot and dry spring and summer. Apart from heavy rainfall (25 mm) on 6 July at Quinta do Noval, only 300 mm of rain fell since November 2016.  June was the hottest month since 1980, with temperatures reaching 42-44°C in the Douro Valley during a heat wave lasting from 7 to 24 June. Due to these extreme weather conditions, all phases of the vine’s growth were 15 to 20 days early compared to 2016. The vines weathered the shortage of water and the high temperatures well. At the end of August the harvest looked very promising, with excellent sanitary conditions. Harvest started much earlier than usual due to the weather: from 17 August for the white wines and 21 August for the reds and the Ports, lasting until 28 September, with high temperatures and a total absence of rain."  Shippers note.

£320 per case of 6 bottles in bond

2017 Taylor

The immediate impression here is of freshness and elegance.  Relatively closed on the nose at this stage but what is there is fine and mineral and floral.  Violets and black fruits with some citrus fruits too (makes me think of the 'breakfast tree' at Vargellas).  Remarkable that such an intense year has only served to up the classicism of Taylor's, a classic vintage.  RKL 

"Opaque black at the centre with a narrow purple rim. Uncompromisingly Taylor’s in style, elegant and precise. The nose is threaded with very fine, linear fruit, heady and complex but restrained by a graphite minerality. Quinta da Vargellas has imprinted its signature fragrance of violets, which hangs like a scented veil over the wine, and there are discreet terroir notes of citrus, wild herbs and gumcistus. The nose is still reserved but there is impressive depth and background, as well as hints of complexities still to emerge with time. The palate is held in place by lithe, muscular tannins, firm and grippy on the finish, and ends with a powerful surge of crisp, pure berry fruit.  A beautifully delineated wine, with the hallmark Taylor’s poise and definition and the tantalising promise of pleasures still to come."  Shipper's note.

£325 per case of 6 bottles in bond

2017 Quinta do Vesuvio

Vying with Cockburn's for best value but in a completely different style, fresh and elegant.  Lovely ripe fruit and spices, a slight fieryness but all expressed with energy and a lightness of touch.  RKL

"Although 2017 was an extraordinarily dry year, the vines at Quinta do Vesuvio adjusted to the drought with impressive resilience, producing small, compact grapes that delivered superb concentration balanced by remarkable freshness. At Vesuvio we preserve the time-honoured method of treading the grapes in the impressive granite lagares built in 1827. Teams of up to 50 men and women tread the grapes every evening and into the night during the vintage, true to a centuries-old tradition. This is one of the last examples of Vintage Port being produced in the historic way in the Douro and results in wines of exceptional complexity and fantastic ageing potential.  Only 1,200 nine litre cases were bottled."  Shipper's note.

£270 per case of 6 bottles in bond

2017 Warre's

Little brother/sister to Grahams?  In that it is very complete and rounded, mixing vibrant fruit with a good firm structure.  Plenty of energy and offers good value.  RKL

"The flagship Warre vineyards at Quinta de Cavadinha in the Pinhão valley are relatively high, resulting in cooler temperatures and later picking dates than the lower-lying vines in the main Douro valley. Also included in the Warre’s 2017 are grapes from higher altitude vineyards at Quinta do Retiro in the Rio Torto and Quinta das Netas and Quinta do Alvito. These privileged locations were of great value in the very dry and warm conditions of 2017, and the Vintage Ports made in the specialist lagar winery at Cavadinha are remarkably balanced and structured, with Warre’s trademark elegance and liveliness. Only 3,600 nine litre cases were bottled."  Shipper’s note.

£270 per case of 6 bottles in bond