'Kapow!' 2017 Northern Rhône En Primeur from Delas Frères
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It's not often we open a wine offer with a 'Kapow', but Rhône expert Matt Walls' tasting note for Delas Frères' 2017 Hermitage Les Bessards sums up a lot about the impressive power and definition of the wines from this small, high-quality negociant.
We tasted a selection of their Northern Rhônes in London last November and met winemaker Claire Darnaud to learn about the latest developments here.
Founded in 1835 and owned by Louis Roederer since 1993, Delas has enjoyed the kind of long-term investment which only a very wealthy parent can bring. The results are some of the most impressive wines of the 2017 vintage, including the stunning 97 point scoring Hermitage Les Bessards.
Delas' impressive vineyard holdings include 10 hectares in Hermitage itself, from a total of just 140 hectares for the whole AOC. In a region where blending wines from numerous small parcels is the norm (the average holding in Condrieu and Hermitage is just one hectare), Claire has made a name for herself, and for Delas, by focusing on single vineyard wines with more individual character and expression of terroir.
The single vineyard Hermitage Les Bessards and Côte Rôtie La Landonne are already well-known as the greatest vineyards within their respective appellations, but Claire has also explored other, less well-known climats, like the Sainte Epine vineyard in St Joseph.
She explained that the granite slopes here are in fact on the same alignment as the hill of Hermitage, having been separated over geological time. Dark, mineral and intense, this is one of the most impressive St Josephs we have tasted. We are tempted to call it poor man's Hermitage, but that might do the Sainte Epine terroir a disservice, so that award goes to the Crozes-Hermitage Domaine des Grands Chemins, a 'screaming good wine' according to Rhone expert Jeb Dunnuck.
The offer rounds off with one of the best and most 'complete' Condrieus we have tasted in recent years, the Clos Boucher.
2017 was a small but high quality vintage in the Northern Rhône. The growing season began early. This and the hot summer led to an early harvest with particularly fine, concentrated tannins and plenty of concentration. A great vintage and the wines have a good future ahead of them - you really should consider adding some to your cellar.
Offered En Primeur, wines due to land in the UK in autumn 2019
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2017 Hermitage 'Les Bessards', Delas Frères |
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Dark and brooding in the glass, obvious new oak on the nose, but the blackberry and floral violet fruit aromas are more than capable of balancing it. Surprisingly powerful tannins, which along with mineral character give great structure and length to compliment the tremendous fruit purity. Just 500 cases made. RKL
"Fermented in concrete and aged for 14 months in new or one-year-old barriques, this wine is aerial and lifted with precisely delineated, resinous blackberry and blackcurrant fruit. It's not overly full in body, with a bright and vivid, precise, focussed palate showing real drive and thrust. Long, saline and very well balanced. Kapow! 97 points." Matt Walls, Decanter, Nov 2018.
£640 per case of 6 bottles in bond
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2017 Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes, Delas Frères |
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"Lieux-dits L'Ermite, Le Sabot and Les Bessards are combined in this wine, fermented in concrete then aged in new and one-year-old French oak barrels. There's a touch of charcoal and fresh cigar among the brooding blackberry fruits. It's medium- to full-bodied but really concentrated and vibrant, coating the palate in juicy fruit and fine, sweet tannins. The alcohol is a little raised, but overall this is a powerful, polished, energetic Hermitage. Drinking Window 2021 - 2028. 93 points." Matt Walls, Decanter Nov 2018.
£280 per case of 6 bottles in bond
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2017 Cote Rotie La Landonne, Delas Frères |
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Floral on the nose (peonies), but there's great depth and concentration here too. Complex aromas of coffee, herbs, red and black fruits, all variously confirmed on the palate, which is supported by very fine, silky tannins. RKL
"Only made in top years, the first vintage of this wine was 1997. It's fermented in concrete then aged for 16 months in new or 1-year-old barriques. The 2017 is dark, spicy and brooding, with star-anise notes running through the damson and berry fruit. The palate is full-bodied, with a slight sweetness to the fruit, hefty ripe tannins and considerable cola oak. It's concentrated, ripe, intense and structured, with a long, fresh and spicy finish. Drinking Window 2021 - 2031. 94 points." Matt Walls, Decanter November 2018.
£695 per case of 6 bottles in bond
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2017 Cote Rotie Seigneur de Maugiron, Delas Frères |
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Vin de garde? Not showing as much concentration as the La Landonne, but with a savoury mid-palate and fine tannins suggesting lots of potential and elegance to come. RKL
"100% Syrah. Cask sample. Tasted blind. Crunchy redcurrant fruit with a touch of olive bitterness and fairly light concentration on the palate. Refreshing, balanced but straightforward. 16.5 points." Jancisrobinson.com Nov 18 (RH)
£295 per case of 6 bottles in bond
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2017 Cornas Chante Perdrix, Delas Frères |
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More floral notes on the nose...lilies and peonies. But then elegance on the nose contrasts with the intense blackcurrant on the palate. Denser and more concentrated than almost any Cornas I have tasted, excellent. RKL
"Sourced from various south-facing plots, all hand-picked and fermented in open-top concrete vats, then matured in barrel for 14 months before release. Always a ripe and oaky style, the 2017 is no different - there's a rich concentration of blackberry and blackcurrant with a background of star anise, clove and incense. A real burst of fruit breaks free from the oak, and the finish is just a little pinched but should settle. Always seductive. Drinking Window 2021 - 2026. 93 points." Matt Walls, Decanter Nov 2018.
£150 per case of 6 bottles in bond
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2017 St Joseph Sainte Epine, Delas Frères |
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Dark fruits on the nose (something resinous too or am I imagining it?) full and fleshy on the palate, but still energetic and with aspirations to being a more serious wine than I associate with St Joseph. The fruit and tannin break onto the palate in waves which seem to keep coming. RKL
"Cask sample. Tasted blind. Stewed black cherries, fleshy palate, furry tannins. Lots of effort and ripeness here, perhaps at the cost of St-Joseph's subtlety. But there is good length with powerful fruit concentration, at least. 17 points. Jancisrobinson.com Nov 18 (RH)
£220 per case of 6 bottles in bond
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2017 St Joseph Francois de Tournon, Delas Frères |
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Deeply coloured, fresh and floral on the nose, with blackcurrant and some spice. Fine, silky tannins define the structure, with plenty of mineral character, will likely age well and offer plenty of development over the next ten to fifteen years. RKL
£140 per case of 6 bottles in bond
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2017 Crozes-Hermitage, Domaine des Grands Chemins, Delas Frères |
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“The 2017 Crozes Hermitage Domaine Des Grands Chemins is a screaming good wine that comes all from the Les Chassis portion of the region, which are the alluvial soils on the lower plain. Aged in a mix of tank and small barrels, this beauty boasts a saturated purple/blue color as well as notes of crème de cassis, scorched earth, graphite, and crushed rocks. With beautifully integrated oak, full body, terrific purity, and a great finish, it's unquestionably one of the gems from this appellation. 93-95 points.” JebDunnuck.com, December 20, 2018
£120 per case of 6 bottles in bond
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2017 Condrieu 'Clos Boucher', Delas Frères |
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Beautifully ripe but still fresh fruits, lime and pineapple, with some herbal notes adding complexity. Some French oak on the nose, but balanced by the rich fruit and fresh acidity. Pitched mid-way between the more perfumed and the riper Condrieu styles, but with great structure to hand it all on, very impressive. RKL
“Slightly deeper and richer, the 2017 Condrieu Clos Boucher offers beautiful notes of tangerine, honeyed limes, citrus, and brioche. It's another fresher, elegant Condrieu that has bright acidity, medium body, and sensational balance. It's as drinkable as they come and one of the gems in the vintage. 96 points.” JebDunnuck.com, December 20, 2018
“High-pitched notes of green plum, green almond, white peach and honeysuckle are laced with a flash of fennel, contrasted by a plump, rounded texture. Drink now through 2021. 94 points” Winespectator.com, November 15, 2018 (JM)
£240 per case of 6 bottles in bond
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Minimum order: one case as listed
Payment: on receipt of invoice
Shipment: Approximately November 2019
Delivery: delivery, duty & VAT charged at prevailing rates at time of clearance from bond
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